Today was my third trip to the Green Zone, but today was different. Today I got to see the Holy Grail of Americans in Iraq. The Republican Palace was the largest and most ornate of Saddam Hussein's many palaces until it became the American Embassy. I had heard stories about the miles of marble, the plush sofas, the intricate details in the architecture. Seeing it was a whole different story.I went through 16 checkpoints to get from our front door into the palace, including close to a dozen full-body patdowns (in many cases, inexplicably, a privilege reserved only for women). Our car was searched three times, my ID was checked more than 20, and the whole process took nearly 90 minutes. Then, to get in the door, we were required to have an escort from one of the offices there (ours was a very lovely woman from State who was hosting us for lunch).
We didn't get much time to walk around inside, but I was in awe of what I did manage to see. Say what you will, Saddam had style. The place is obviously huge, with several great halls that were each 10 times the size of my apartment and many, many smaller rooms. Most of the space has been turned into offices now, but some of the larger rooms still have open space with fancy furniture. And the chandeliers... unlike anything I've ever seen.We ate in the embassy's dining hall in the palace, which was set up college-style, but on a much larger scale. The options were plentiful, and all of it very American--hot dogs, hamburgers, subs, ribs, salads, etc. etc. Plus, there was a full Baskin-Robbins ice cream bar! It didn't seem to fit in with the grand display that was the rest of the building, but my pasta, salad and ice cream were delicious, thank you very much.
We passed by the (outdoor) palace pool on our way out, which was also gigantic and very elegant. A few embassy employees were swimming laps while a few others floated on inflatables. Apparently in the early days there was essentially a frat party going on there 24/7, but that doesn't seem to have lasted. Still, though, not a bad way of life.
Sadly, there are almost no photos of the palace online (probably because taking photos around the embassy is forbidden--more security restrictions). The one at the top is a view of the back of the palace with the pool in the foreground; the one further down is a lame shot of one of the giant ballrooms.
4 comments:
Somehow it does not surprise me that women get more pat-downs than men. I mean, ask yourself - who is doing the pat-downs?
It's always women doing the patdowns! They're very demure about it--they take you off to the side behind a curtain, and always a female. Weird.
Sounds like an amazing trip. Wonder if they think women are more likely to try and sneak something in? Can't trust women! HA! That one should get in some trouble! LOL
a Muslim man could not pat down a woman in public. it is just like Muslim women having to see women doctors.
briony seems to be very busy with her duties. with multi hour pat downs how do you have the time to do the reporting and writing? makes me feel like a slacker.
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